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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.